2006 mitsubishi triton problems Page 9

The 2006 Triton (ML era) is tough as old boots, but not immune to the usual ute gremlins. Diesel models can suffer from soot build-up and age-related wear, while hard-working 4x4s often show driveline fatigue. Figure out which engine you have—some MLs ran the 3.2 Di‑D, while later variants used the 2.5—because maintenance needs differ. Below are the usual suspects to check before you slap down your hard-earned.

• EGR/intake carbon build-up causing rough running, smoke and power loss; periodic cleaning and correct servicing help.
• Engine specifics: 3.2 Di‑D uses a timing chain; later 2.5 diesels have timing/balance belts that must be replaced on schedule—verify history.
• Cooling under load: tired radiators/fans; on neglected engines, overheating can lead to head issues—walk away if temps or pressure tests look dodgy.
• Driveline wear: tailshaft centre bearing rumble, rear leaf spring sag, front CVs and diff seals (especially on lifted or heavily worked utes).
• 4x4 engagement glitches: vacuum solenoids/actuator problems causing no- or partial-4WD.
• Manual clutch shudder and gearbox synchro wear; autos benefit from fluid/cooler maintenance.
• Steering rack ends and front wheel bearings loosen up with age and corrugations.
• Rust spots around tray seams and underbody after beach work; inspect thoroughly.
• Recalls/airbags: run the VIN against recall notices and get a pre-purchase inspection.

Buy on condition and evidence of diligent servicing, not on the size of the spotlights. A tidy service history beats a freshly detailed engine bay every day of the week.